Posts in Dresses
Highlights from LFW: Temperley London Spring 2016

Alice Temperley took the cue for her Spring 2016 RTW collection from Havana and other hot Latin American climes. 'The mood reflects Cuba and the forbidden yet tempting fantasy of island life – its decadent cultural heritage and the nonchalant and mysterious attitude of its capital city Havana.'

"I wanted this to be romantic and decadent, but also colorful and happy,” said the designer. “Clothes should be about escapism, and for summer they should also be easy, comfortable, cool and eclectic.”

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The designer sent out a lineup of dresses covered in embroidery and other needlework done in a summer garden color palette inspired by the images of Robert Polidori. There were belted cotton dresses, many with circle skirts and a ruffle around the neckline.

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The heart of this collection was Temperley’s heavily embroidered sundresses, and likewise embellished sundress like ensembles. Backed in crisp white or navy cotton, these pieces came in a variety of relaxed silhouettes and played host to a virtual fireworks display of floral and abstract embroidered patterns.

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Others silhouettes were more inspired by the region’s folk doll figurines, as in a loose-fitting black dress with orange sequins, and the dark, patterned knitwear.

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Image Sources: Umberto Fratini/Indigitalimages via vogue.com   temperlylondon.com

Text Sources: temperlylondon.com    Samantha Conti/wwd.com   Maya Singer/ vogue.com

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Crush of the Week: Ralph & Russo Autumn/Winter 2015/16 Couture Collection

There are different kinds of couture fans: those who want it to move with the times, embracing modernity à la Raf Simons at Dior; those who long for the theatrics and drama of Galliano's heyday; and then there are those of British-based couture house Ralph & Russo where old meets new seamlessly - with just a little couture fairy dust sprinkled on top.

 As far as it could be from the usual concept of the fashion-week spectacle, the Ralph & Russo show takes couture back to its inception - with the women who actually buy the dresses we were about to see waiting eagerly for their debut, some actually texting designer Tamara Ralph to ensure that the one per territory that the brand allows will not end up in the wardrobe of a rival princess or Russian heiress.

The Autumn/Winter 2015/16 Couture collection is called 'Enchanted Splendour'. Set against the backdrop of an enchanted forest, Tamara Ralph’s dreamy fairy tale like creations fit the princess theme from the neck down to the toes. Her work is a tour de force of elaborate design and labor-intensive artistry and the result is a sublime blend of tradition and modernity.

"We had a lot of vintage Sixties embroideries that we redeveloped, so that was the starting point in terms of fabric," Ralph says. "The Ralph & Russo girl this season is strong, she's beautiful; the shapes are more sensual, but within that we still have a range of styles for all our clients."

Ralph & Russo Fall 2015 Couture
Ralph & Russo Fall 2015 Couture
Ralph & Russo Fall 2015 Couture
Ralph & Russo Fall 2015 Couture
Ralph & Russo Fall 2015 Couture
Ralph & Russo Fall 2015 Couture
Ralph & Russo Fall 2015 Couture
Ralph & Russo Fall 2015 Couture
Ralph & Russo Fall 2015 Couture
Ralph & Russo Fall 2015 Couture
'Eden' Pumps in Midnight Blue AW15/16 pre-order at Harrod's Bourique

'Eden' Pumps in Midnight Blue AW15/16 pre-order at Harrod's Bourique

Ralph & Russo Fall 2015 Couture
Ralph & Russo Fall 2015 Couture
'Eden' Pumps AW15/16 available to pre-order at Harrod's Boutique & by private order

'Eden' Pumps AW15/16 available to pre-order at Harrod's Boutique & by private order

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Ralph & Russo Fall 2015 Couture
Ralph & Russo Fall 2015 Couture
Ralph & Russo Fall 2015 Couture

Ralph's discerning eye goes a long way to creating an opulence that somehow still remains understated, a concept nowhere more evident than in this autumn's bridal finale.

Worn by Ana Beatriz Barros, the Victorian neckline and intricate gold embroidery of the dress was given a sexy hip-hugging shape.  How can something that is comprised of 700 metres of embroidered Chantilly lace be called "simple"? That's the Ralph & Russo je ne sais quoi.

Ralph & Russo Fall 2015 Couture
Ralph & Russo Fall 2015 Couture
Ralph & Russo Fall 2015 Couture
Ralph & Russo Fall 2015 Couture

Images Sources: Ralph & Russo    flip-zone.com    facebook/Ralph&Russo

Text Sources: Ralph & Russo     vogue/uk    wwd.com

 

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Crush of the Week: Giorgio Armani Privé Fall/Winter 2015 Couture Collection

The show was called 'Shocking', and an invitation, a set, and a first look radiant with bright pink. Armani opened with two Shocking jackets, one, with a peplum, in Lurex-shot chenille over black velvet pants, the other, a lean, elegant crepe over color-blocked pants in velvet and satin. The shocking pink–washed backdrop of the show set the tone but Armani soon unleashed hues that boldly mixed that fearless color with brilliant lapis blue, and emerald and tourmaline greens, often in shimmering metallic effects, or dazzled with Swarovski crystals like the aurora borealis.

Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2015
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2015

“For once I’m not thinking about my clients’ needs,” laughed Giorgio Armani during a preview of his Armani Privé collection. “I wanted to express my creativity! My first inspiration was to bring my drawings to life,” he continued, “to have all the girls look the same—black hair cuts, a similar allure, like a sketch.”

Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2015

As if to reinforce the illusion of an illustrator’s strong painterly line, Armani defined the collection with felt pen streaks of black velvet—for the narrow line of a pant leg.

Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2015
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2015
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2015
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2015
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2015

As precise and shiny as the clothes were, they had a rawness with their tattered threads and shagginess. Armani explored an infinity of textures with his feathers, knots, and fringing. There were dresses that looked collaged from scraps of fabric.

Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2015

This was definitely a collection for the dark and decadent night.

Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2015
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2015
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2015
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2015
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2015
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2015
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2015
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2015
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2015
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2015
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2015
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Fall 2015

As Armani said backstage, “couture has to be a dream.” This season, the designer was dreaming in glorious Technicolor.

Image Sources: style.com   flip-zone   the cut

Text Sources: style.com  wwd.com vogue.com  the cut

For more images go to my Images Optimized For Pinterest page. You are welcome to pin images directly to Pinterest. Click below on the button 'Images Optimized For Pinterest'.