Posts tagged Chanel Haute Couture
Haute Couture Week Spring 2019 Paris

Rainbows, Mermaids and Marie-Antoinette

To my great delight, there was a plethora of rainbow colors as well as inspiration taken from my favorite period, the Rococo. Rainbows were seen in many collections, subtle-colored sparkling sequins in the case of Ralph & Russo - or more obvious in the collections of Schiaparelli, Georges Hobeika, Jean Paul Gaultier, Rami Kadi and Givenchy. Lagerfeld’s creations came in pastel rainbows. Alexis Mabille even named his show “Rainbow Splash.” Zuhair Murad, Elie Saab and Jean Paul Gaultier dove into the sea for inspiration, while Giorgio Armani and Stéphane Rolland looked to the Art Deco period.

Karl Lagerfeld invites us to the Mediterranean style “Villa Chanel,” a world he calls “lux, serene and calm, not like [the world] now.” Here we celebrate the joy of beauty and of nature.. Inspired by the exhibition “La Fabrique du luxe: Les marchands merciers parisiens au XVIIIe siècle,” Lagerfeld gives us a modern take on the 18th century world of King Louis XV and his mistress, Madame de Pompadour. Here we see sumptuous embroideries of resin-preserved flowers, sequins carefully painted by hand, and delicate lace, hand-painted or iced with silicone whorls, giving it the look of Meissen porcelain. Full skirts contrasted with small-bodices remind us of the days of Marie Antoinette.

Stéphane Rolland describes his collection as being “inspired by the 20s and art deco. I started with the era after the war of 1914/18 when there was freedom of expression. People wanted to live. When we see what is happening today, we want to rediscover this freedom. It's this that drove my collection and my way of thinking. I entered inside the Champs-Elysées theatre and voilà, here is the message. All the shapes flow, the body is free. It's not too sexy, its sensible, and very sensual, but at the same time super fragile and with an extreme sensibility and femininity. This is what I truly wanted. ”

Georges Chakra describes his collection as “a fairy-tale. it’s funny, its romantic, it’s poetic, it’s sensual, perfect to escape from everyday worries. The clothes have to have a very well done and excellent finish. There are dresses that use kilometers of tulle, there are frills and bows, so I think that everything that is romantic and sensual is seen throughout the show.”

“I don’t believe in modernist couture,” says Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino, “I love couture for what it is—the lightness, the uniqueness.” And that is what we see in Piccioli’s collection, the lightness and uniqueness of flowers. “I have asked the seamstresses of the Atelier to personally name each dress with a name of a flower,” says Piccioli, “or with the emotion brought by the flower itself. I was inspired by the Abécédaire de Flore.” Even many of the models’ eyes are framed in petals to transform them into flower fairies of the 19th-century French artist J. J. Grandville and the 1960s makeup artist Pablo Manzoni. The collection of 65 looks recalls all that we know of Valentino, from the voluminous ball gowns, to the ruffles, to the lace and wallpaper florals, all made relevant for today.

Schiaparelli Haute Couture

Bertrand Guyon of Schiaparelli describes his collection as “almost futuristic, even, because I wanted to work on totally different color combinations inspired by the porcelain of Sèvres, Chantilly and Meissen for the floral section. It’s also very humorous and optimistic.” His embroideries incorporate antique porcelain designs, as well as an astrological pattern from a 17th century star atlas. For futuristic, take a look at his “Meteroid Swarm Cape” or his gigantic, tiered, pink tulle gown.

Giambattista Valli’s trademark tulle explosions, extravagant trains, and fez hats mark his latest collection. Thousands of sparkling Swarovski crystals that crunch under your feet create a feeling of lightness and of Paris at night. Valli describes what led him to become a couturier by reflecting on a photo he’d seen by Helmut Newton, one of models lounging in the couture salon of Yves Saint Laurent. “He captured the atmosphere of the French maisons de la haute couture I was dreaming about when I decided to move to Paris to become a couturier. That attitude only exists here in Paris, a sort of posture of the mind, a nervous silhouette, décomplexée.”

Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2019

Pearls, pearls and more pearls mark the revival of the House of Balmain’s haute couture atelier. Giant orbs encircling wrists and carried by hand were emblazoned with the Balmain name, signifying the house’s return. “Here, it’s all about bringing back Balmain to the elegance of la France,” explains designer Olivier Rousteing. “Of course, the house is known for being edgy and sexy and glamorous. Everything you see will give the sense that it’s taken from the ideas of Mr. Balmain,” he continues, adding that the maison’s archives were essential.

“Every color has its own energy,” says designer Alexis Mabille, as he presents his spring collection, appropriately named “Rainbow Splash.” “It’s a rainbow in every sense — freedom of color and freedom of expression.” He completes his rainbow with the full spectrum of colors, from black to neon by way of turquoise, emerald, navy and gold.

Zuhair Murad Haute Couture


For its Spring-Summer 2019 Haute Couture collection, Maison Georges Hobeika evokes the timeless essence of the Château de Versailles and the passionate myth of the legendary Marie-Antoinette.

In his Armani Privé collection, “Laquer,” Giorgio Armani brings us the Art Deco aesthetic of the Jazz Age fused with the beautiful red lacquers that are a hallmark of Chinese art.

Zuhair Murad’s “Aquatic Serenade” makes the greatest splash at Haute Couture Week. “The inspiration was all about the sea, the world of the deep sea, the sea from the beaches, from inside and outside,” he explains, adding that his colors are meant to “evoke the feel of ripples on water.” Murad’s palette includes the whole range of ocean colors, from shades of blue dégradé to turquoise to mother-of-pearl.

“I wanted to celebrate the magic of femininity,” says Elie Saab “Oui, c’est le rêve! It’s a dream of luminous mermaids emerging from the waves and promenading along the sea.” Sequins of ocean-blue remind us of the shimmering surface of the sea.“ I wanted to express the brilliance and the glamour of women; I try to enhance their charm with my creations: I look at femininity with my utmost respect. I bring to French haute couture my Mediterranean sensibility, a vision of a woman almost regal in her demeanor.”

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture Spring 2019

Met Gala and Exhibition: “China: Through the Looking Glass"

“China: Through the Looking Glass,” a spectacular exhibition curated and organized by Andrew Bolton opened Monday at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, with production design by Nathan Crowley. Two years in the making, installed both in the Anna Wintour Costume Center and within the grand backdrop of the museum’s Chinese Galleries—a first for contemporary fashion—the show juxtaposes masterpieces of Chinese art and rare artifacts with works by (mostly) Western designers, inspired by the idea of China but emerging from the wilder shores of the imagination. By Leslie Camhi
 

Fashion Editor: Grace Coddington   Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, May 2015

At the Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring 2009 show in Paris, John Galliano’s lining on a cream silk ball gown (worn by model Fei Fei Sun) referenced the designer’s fascination with blue-and-white porcelain.

At the Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring 2009 show in Paris, John Galliano’s lining on a cream silk ball gown (worn by model Fei Fei Sun) referenced the designer’s fascination with blue-and-white porcelain.

Designers’ imaginations have been fired by visions of pleasure pavilions and blossoming branches, with a handful of familiar motifs emblematic of China itself: the peony, the pagoda, the phoenix captive on the grounds of a summer palace.

Alexander McQueen dress embroidered with birds, butterflies, and flowers, from Autumn 2006.  

Alexander McQueen dress embroidered with birds, butterflies, and flowers, from Autumn 2006.  

Many of the garden motifs we associate with China were first popularized in the West by the aristocracy of France and England as patterns on imported or domestic-imitation china and wallpaper.

Valentino created this blue-and-white bouquet-printed gown in Autumn 1968.

Valentino created this blue-and-white bouquet-printed gown in Autumn 1968.

Peacocks, cranes, and other gorgeous winged creatures appear on many of the garments in the exhibition.

Mei Lanfang, a 20th-century Peking Opera singer famous for playing female roles, inspired John Galliano’s Spring 2003 Christian Dior Haute Couture collection, including this theatrical ensemble and gilded headpiece, which will be showcased in the exhibition.  

Mei Lanfang, a 20th-century Peking Opera singer famous for playing female roles, inspired John Galliano’s Spring 2003 Christian Dior Haute Couture collection, including this theatrical ensemble and gilded headpiece, which will be showcased in the exhibition.  

Scarlet has so many associations: firecrackers in their bright wrappers; the lucky red-paper trinkets of the Chinese New Year. John Galliano summoned to mind these references for Christian Dior Haute Couture in Spring 1997 with this silk fringed dress with a delicate tracing of flowers from the shoulder.

Scarlet has so many associations: firecrackers in their bright wrappers; the lucky red-paper trinkets of the Chinese New Year. John Galliano summoned to mind these references for Christian Dior Haute Couture in Spring 1997 with this silk fringed dress with a delicate tracing of flowers from the shoulder.

Image Source & Rights:  Vogue    Steven Meisel    Text Source & Rights:   Vogue    Leslie Camhi

Hair: Guido Palau; Makeup: Pat McGrath for CoverGirl: Produced by PRODn at Art + Commerce; Set Design: Mary Howard; Wallpaper: Courtesy of de Gournay; Dressing: Madame Paulette   Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, May 2015

 

It was not your average night at the museum, but the biggest and boldest night on fashion’s calendar—the Met Gala. About 600 guests wound their way through the red-carpet tumult and into the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s entrance hall, dominated for the night by a gigantic chinoiserie vase created entirely by white and blue roses. Up the grand staircase lined by fragrant, verdant bamboo they walked, past Vogue staffers clad in pale jade and lapis–toned Michael Kors pajamas.

Tabitha Simmons and Coco Brandolini D'Adda, both in Dolce & Gabbana  Photo by Taylor Jewell

Tabitha Simmons and Coco Brandolini D'Adda, both in Dolce & Gabbana  Photo by Taylor Jewell

Entrance Hall dominated by a gigantic chinoiserie vase created entirely by white and blue roses. Photo by Taylor Jewell

Entrance Hall dominated by a gigantic chinoiserie vase created entirely by white and blue roses. Photo by Taylor Jewell

Ivanka Trump in Prabal Gurung and Jared Kushner. Photo by Taylor Jewell

Ivanka Trump in Prabal Gurung and Jared Kushner. Photo by Taylor Jewell

Karen Elson in Dolce Alta Moda        Photo: Kevin Tachman/ Vogue

Karen Elson in Dolce Alta Moda        Photo: Kevin Tachman/ Vogue

With fashion's heavy hitters and Hollywood's most stylish in attendance, the arrivals always end up being the most jaw-dropping of the year.

Rihanna in Guo Pei Couture      Getty Images / Dimitrios Kambouris

Rihanna in Guo Pei Couture      Getty Images / Dimitrios Kambouris

   Rihanna in Guo Pei Couture                                         Getty Images/ Dimitrios Kambouris

 

Rihanna in Guo Pei Couture                                         Getty Images/ Dimitrios Kambouris

Rihanna arrived draped in a vast fur-lined gold robe —a couture creation that took more than 50,000 hours to make by Chinese designer Guo Pei.

Kim Kardashian in custom Roberto Cavalli                      Getty Images/ Larry Busacca

Kim Kardashian in custom Roberto Cavalli                      Getty Images/ Larry Busacca

Kerry Washington in Prada       Getty Images/ Larry Busacca

Kerry Washington in Prada       Getty Images/ Larry Busacca

Fan Bingbing in Christopher Bu            Wireimage/ Kevin Mazur

Fan Bingbing in Christopher Bu            Wireimage/ Kevin Mazur

Brie Larson, Courtney Eaton and Annabelle Wallis        Getty Images/ Larry Busacca  

Brie Larson, Courtney Eaton and Annabelle Wallis        Getty Images/ Larry Busacca
 

Bee Shaffer in Alexander McQueen     Getty Images

Bee Shaffer in Alexander McQueen     Getty Images

Karen Elson in Dolce Alta Moda               Getty Images/Larry Busacca        

Karen Elson in Dolce Alta Moda               Getty Images/Larry Busacca        

Jessica Chastain in Givenchy Haute Couture      Photo: Taylor Jewell/ Vogue

Jessica Chastain in Givenchy Haute Couture     Photo: Taylor Jewell/ Vogue

Annabelle Wallis and Tabitha Simmons both in Dolce Alta Moda      Photo: Taylor Jewell/Vogue

Annabelle Wallis and Tabitha Simmons both in Dolce Alta Moda     Photo: Taylor Jewell/Vogue

The Table      Photo by Daniel Arnold/ Vogue

The Table      Photo by Daniel Arnold/ Vogue

Fan Bingbing in Christopher Bu        Photo by Taylor Jewell/ Vogue

Fan Bingbing in Christopher Bu       Photo by Taylor Jewell/ Vogue

Zhang Ziyi, Gong Li, Wendi Murdoch, and Li Bingbing           Photo: David X Prutting/bfanyc.com

Zhang Ziyi, Gong Li, Wendi Murdoch, and Li Bingbing           Photo: David X Prutting/bfanyc.com

Rihanna performing   Photo: Kevin Tachman/ Vogue

Rihanna performing  Photo: Kevin Tachman/ Vogue

Image Sources :  Vogue.com   Style.com  Hollywoodreporter.com  Popsugar.com

Text Source:  Vogue.com   NYTimes.com

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